As it was a beautiful morning, we thought we would walk more widely, ultimately aiming for the Villa Borghese park, via St Peter’s Square.

The aim was to avoid some of the crowds, although I did warn Roger that anywhere near the Vatican would be busy.

It was a lovely walk, with Castello Sant’Angelo looking its best against the blue sky and next to a gently sparkling Tiber.

Approaching St Peter’s Square, the streets got more crowded and the shops got more religious – which was to be expected. Mango, however, appears to be branching out into an unusual market for a fast fashion chain!

While we both expected St Peter’s Square to be busy,  we hadn’t quite foreseen that the queue to get into the Basilica would be curl almost all the way round the Square (which isn’t square at all, by the way). People seemed quite relaxed despite the heat of the sun and the wait time.

Villa Borghese was pretty, with spectacular views over Poazza del Populo (where the quick stop for coffee and a cold drink was stupidly expensive).

Once through the park and out, we made our way back into the centre of town and ate an unremarkable lunch. Yes, pasta and no pepper grinder.

Then we wandered into Palazzo Altemps, one of the four museums that comprise the Museum of Rome. It was free because it was the first weekend of the month and while we weren’t that interested in all the classical statuary (we have seen a LOT of classical statuary) the building itself is incredible. Nothing particularly noteworthy from the front, but a lovely central courtyard, with some amazing rooms, lovely ceilings and an ornate chapel.

There was one particularly impressive piece commemorating a Roman battle – it just said ‘against barbarians’. The carving is very intricate.

Walking past the Trevi fountain proved almost impossible,

and the crowds through to the Spanish Steps were equally insane. On our way, we peeked into Palazzo Borghese which houses the Spanish Embassy to the Roman State – more evidence of the wealth behind the high walls.

We met a work acquaintance of mine, Monica (yes, she is Italian), who took us through some interesting churches (I can now say I have seen four Caravagios and one very early Michelangelo statue) and also past the excavations at one end of Piazza Navona. This was originally a Circus, hence its shape, and in the last 20 years an original entrance has been uncovered below street level (of course).

And, after 25 kilometers of walking, we hobbled off to enjoy a well deserved bottle of Primitivo and bed.