Small, not included in many guidebooks other than a reference to it being a good base outside the Cinque Terre –  we had lowish expectations of Moneglia.

After a bit of a faff waiting for our bill (due to a name confusion, our room had been charges to someone else), we left Camogli and headed southeast, changing trains at Sestri-Levanti.  While the train did run along the coast (and through a few tunnels) it was mostly built up,  with very rare gaps between some sort of building.  Once we left Sestri-Levante, however,  the train went inland before turning back to the coast.

Moneglia was small, still had a clutch of tourists, although no day-trippers   and was quite bustley. There are several signs declaring it one of Liguria’s prettiest villages, which we were sceptical of – otherwise why would the guidebooks ignore it?

But it was definitely pretty  definitely charming and the perfect base for our exploration of the Cinque Terre.

The beach was sandy; an artificial reef provided easier water for  children (and protected the imported  ‘golden’ sand).  The ‘free’ area not given over to the lido system was large and nicely kept.

We stayed in the Abaddia San Georgio, a fifteenth century Franciscan monastery, one section of which has been converted into an eight bedroom B&B.  It was beautiful, atmospheric, with frescos both within the cloister and ouside.

Restaurants were cheaper than Camogli and, the ones we frequented, better value for money.. Furthermore there was a wider range of independent ‘foodstuff ‘ shops, from cheese to wine to fruit and veg to salami to bakeries…

Pre-Roman remains have been found found locally and the town occupied an important position on the Roman Via Aurelia  so the town has had some historic relevance over the centuries. 

In 1874 the railway arrived,  with the line hugging the shore all the way south – barring tunnels through the cliffs that got in the way.  In 1932 the line was moved inland which has resulted in a lovely promenade running along the old tracks. The old station is still there:  some sort of offices now.

Everyone at the hotel was welcoming  smiley and just nice.  Moneglia is very much a jumping off point for the Cinque Terre, so within five minutes of arriving we had acquired several maps  and train timetable and pointers on footpaths open,  footpaths closed, expensive footpaths,  free footpaths…

Breakfast was incredible.  Best so far.

Cinque Terre and walking next.