From Grum it goes down, down and even more down. Sometimes it is steep, sometimes it is less steep. But it is always DOWN.

Leaving the station, the train goes round the first of many sharp bends and twists. The route is steeper on this side than then other, and it’s obvious that this is the case – things start to slide off the table and it feels like I am perched on a swing about to fall face forward.
It is still beautiful.


And always, and ever, down.

We are, eventually, aiming to get down to the lake in the distance and slowly, carefully, the train winds its way ever downwards.
It gets steeper; just around one corner we are brought to a stop by a signal.

The brakes groan, grind and crunch and the train slows, judders, almost stops, slips a bit and finally, almost, comes to a halt. It never fully stops though, which is marginally worrying.
I am comforted by the knowledge that this line as been open for over 100 years and that the operators wouldn’t endanger their tourist cash cows.
But still.
Short tunnels and galleries provide protection from avalanches. An announcement to this effect reveals just how much steeper the gradient is on the Italian side.
Yet more down. At least the lake seems to be getting closer.

And then we get there!

Only to find that we are still some ways from Tirano. Things seem more lush now and a lot greener but the mountains seem to go forever!

The famous 360 degree turn just before Tirano is impressive. It’s announced, and absolutely everyone stands up to take pictures, bouncing from one side of the train to the other. I just hope theirs were better than mine – the reflection was dire.

We enter Tirano, only to find a car overtaking us. Yes, the train is running down the main road!

And we arrive!




Tirano is FAR more than either of us expected and our B+B is comfortable. Best of all, wine isn’t over 10 Swiss francs a glass!
For having done very little physically, we are both exhausted.
Verona tomorrow.
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