The area north of Rome comprised active volcanos in its geological past and, as a consequence, has several volcanic lakes and lots of thermal springs. It was also an area inhabited by the Etruscans, so we thought we would pay a visit.

On our way up from Villa Adriana we stopped in Bracciano for lunch, which sits on the shores of a large volcanic lake called (you guessed it) Lago Bracciano.

Bracciano is a small, pretty medieval town with a large, imposing castle. 

We had a fabulous lunch and forgot ourselves amongst the various bread offerings (which were delicious). 

The foccacia was warm, the olive oil on the table was fragrant with a hint of pepper

and the Pizzaccia Braccianesse that we started with was knockout.  Thank GOD we shared it. 

The pasta was homemade: Roger had something that Google translated as ‘worms’ (fat spaghetti,  it transpired) alla Carbonara with added truffle while I had the slow cooked, shredded pork on tagliatelle – both sensational.

And the house wine was both inexpensive and delicious. What more could you ask?

And no, absolutely no sign of a pepper grinder.

Slightly bloated, we took the back roads from Bracciano skirting around the national park, through a mixed forest that was on the turn to Autumn – red berries, black withered flower heads, golden leaves, bright red leaves…  It was lovely,  interspersed with what I think were hazelnut orchards, which I guessed from the Nocciarola factory we passed.

The Niccolo V at the Terme dei Papi thermal springs, on the outskirts of Viterbo, is all 1970s exteriors and 1980s bling interiors –  shoulder pads and BIG hair would have fit right in – with a background sulphurous flavour in the air wherever you went. 

Use of the large outdoor pool cost ten Euros each for 24 hours (it shut at seven) and we trotted down to sample the gently odoriferous (but very warm) water.

We are not hot springs people.  Pagoda Springs in Colorado, Budapest, Ojo Ca9liente near Santa Fe …  After about 30 minutes of hot/warm water (or mud in the case of Ojo), we just get bored. Therme dei Papi was no different: we may have made it to 40 minutes of pseudo relaxation, but no more than that. 

Plus, prancing around in a wet cozzie, a hotel bathrobe, barefoot and dodging fully clad guests isn’t our idea of fun.  Furthermore,  however warm the water when you are in it, it’s cold when you get out!

Our evening was spent in the hotel bar with a pack of cards, a bottle of nice wine and background music featuring hits from the late 1970s/ early 1980s (Elton John definitely featured, as did Gloria Gaynor and Dr Hook).  Damp bathrobes, flip-flops and tousled hair (and not hairdresser-tousled) were much in evidence as people emerged from the spa area and had a pre-getting dressed drink.

On Thursday we went to Tarquinia, which is an attractive,  medieval  town that overlooks the sea and has a huge Etruscan necropolis (more of this in the next post).  The impressive museum is housed in an old palazzo, with fabulous views – the building was almost as interesting as the collection.

Aside from large number of sarcophogi (I have no idea if this is the correct plural), they have the winged horses statue that is seen as the town symbol.  Discovered in 1938, in over 100 pieces,  the terracotta statue has been recently renovated.  They are truly beautiful and a wondrous example of Etruscan skill.

They were found during excavations at the temple called Aro della Regina, just outside modern Tarquinia, dating from the early fourth Century BCE.  The horses were painted slightly different colours to accentuate their three dimensional nature  and originally pulled a chariot  (which no longer exists).  They are truly awesome.

This same museum also contains the contents of several of the painted tombs, which were removed in the 1950s to preserve them (yeah, right).  Also hugely impressive  (a tease for the next post).

Another indifferent lunch (no pepper grinder) and a return to the hotel bar, where I beat Roger at Gin Rummy (FINALLY) and had a wonderful Amaro.